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Protecting the Poultry Flock
Rats, Mice and Deterrents
Other deterrents
Making sure that the hens are in their house and locked up at night is obviously common sense. Flimsy door catches on a house in an unprotected area present no great challenge to a determined fox. There are electronic pop-hole closers available that will do the job for you, if for some reason you are not there to do it. These work well, but are no defence where a fox appears while it is still light, as is increasingly the case.
Hunt supporters used to claim that the hunt was an effective fox control and deterrent, but most poultry keepers know from experience that this is not true. If it were, commercial free-range enterprises would not need to invest capital in order to erect electrified fencing. They are also aware of the welfare requirements that state: “Precautions should be taken to protect the birds against foxes, other predators, dogs and cats.” (Ref: Codes of Recommendations for the Welfare of Livestock: Domestic Fowls. DEFRA Publications).
It is worth remembering that every poultry keeper has an individual responsibility to protect a flock, whether large or small.
Humane fox traps are available. These are large, baited cages that the animal enters and cannot get out of again. The trap needs to be placed on a pathway known to be frequented by the animal. It also needs to be well camouflaged for the fox is highly intelligent. If it is caught, there is the question of what to do with the captured animal. The most humane method of despatching it in this case is with a 12-bore shotgun, as long as the owner holds a valid firearms certificate. There are those offering humane trapping and despatching services in most rural areas.
An ordinary flashing light can be a deterrent as long as its position is moved fairly frequently. Once the fox gets used to it, it is no longer frightened away. Such units are available for use with electric fencing, or they can be incorporated into a normal fence.
Chemical deterrents are available that act as a repellent when used along boundaries. Renardine, for example can be mixed with sand and strewn along the perimeter. The treatment needs to be renewed weekly or after heavy rain. A family dog may keep a fox away, while lion or tiger dung from the nearest zoo, placed along boundaries, is said to be effective. Llama keepers are united in the view that llamas will drive off foxes.
Rats
Brown rats, Rattus norvegicus, are major pests because they are so numerous. Historically, they are relatively recent arrivals that quickly displaced the indigenous Black rat. They eat and contaminate stored feeds, kill young birds and carry disease, including salmonella bacteria, trichinosis nematodes, toxoplasmosis protozoa and a range of viruses. From man’s point of view, the most serious threat is Weil’s disease. (If there is any evidence that rats have been around, it is important to wash hands after touching any surfaces where their saliva, urine or droppings may have been deposited. Treat any cuts and grazes with antiseptic and keep them covered).
If you see one rat, you can be certain that there is already a colony nearby. Their average foraging distance is usually no more than 50 metres from the nest. Having once established routes from the nest to the food source, they will travel along the same ‘runs’ each time they visit. This tendency makes it relatively easy to control them.
Try to identify possible hiding places. Are there any identifiable runs indicated by flattened areas of vegetation or soil running along the edges of buildings or other structures? Cut down tall weeds growing against buildings and clear areas where piles of timber or flagstones may have been left for some time. They often conceal rat runs.
Inside outbuildings, paint a white strip along the floor perimeter to show up the presence of droppings more easily. The spindle-shaped droppings are quite large; up to 2cm long. Look out for evidence of gnawing. All feeds should be stored in a rat-proof building or in a strong container with tightly fitting lid. Dustbins, both metal and heavy-duty plastic, are a good option for low-cost and effective storage. Avoid leaving food lying around and if the hens are in a moveable house and run, move the whole structure fairly frequently.
Self-operating feeders can be used where raiding rats or wild birds are feeding at your expense. These are feeders that dispense a certain amount of feed to the ground when the hen displaces the feeding mechanism. This is either a lever that is moved by the beak or a pedal that operates by the bird’s weight. In the former case, the dispenser is too high for rodents or wild birds to reach, while in the latter case, they are too light to displace it.
So much for the prevention of rat raids, but how does one deal with an infestation?
Pest control services
A householder can contact the local authority to obtain the free services of the pest control officer. He will visit and examine the site and then put down poison in protected areas. This is followed by another visit to determine the success of the treatment, and to see if further applications are required. Where the site is a commercial one, the owner is responsible for dealing with the problem. He can either do it himself or call in a contractor to do so. There is a statutory obligation to keep a site free of rats, whether this is reporting their presence to the local authority or dealing with them yourself.
Trapping
There are Fenn traps available for killing rats, but placing them is a skilled job, ensuring that they are in the runs, placed in tunnels and not accessible to anything else. As they are spring traps, they must be inspected regularly. Specialist suppliers stock them. There are also humane traps for catching rats, but there is then the problem of disposal.
Poisoning
This is the most common option. The bait needs to be placed carefully so that poison is available to rats but not birds, domestic pets and, of course, children! Placing it in a section of covered pipe, for example, is effective. The main rodenticide used is an anti-coagulant such as that produced by Sorex. The baits are based on cereals and are available loose, in sachets or in blocks. The general rule, as far as dosage is concerned, is that if all the bait is taken on the first setting, double the amount is placed the second time, and so on. This ensures that all the rats are being dealt with.
Other methods
Having cats and a dog may help to deter rats from a site, but once established nearby, their presence will not control them to any measurable degree. The obvious exception is with a breed such as the Jack Russell that was bred as a ratter. Even so, it is usually necessary to dig out the lair in order to drive out the rats before Jack Russells can get to work.
Ferrets can be effective in going into a lair to kill and drive out rats, but they need to be ones that are trained for this kind of work. Many, these days, are kept purely as pets.
Mice
House mice do not carry as many diseases as rats but they can be a nuisance. If there is an infestation in a dwelling, their gnawing actions can be a fire hazard if they attack cables. Their activities are also associated with getting into and despoiling feed stores. For mice, the poisons are similar to those used for rats. Traps can also be used. These are normally available in one of two forms; the snap bar type that kills the animal on entry or the humane one which catches them alive.
Cats, particularly those with Siamese in their family tree, make good mousers. Females, which have less of a tendency to wander than males, are often the best choice because they are on the spot rather than wandering further afield. If you use poison to kill rats or mice, ensure that cats are kept inside until the poison has done its work. This is in case they catch and eat a poisoned rodent before it dies, for the poison can affect them.
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Copyright © Katie Thear 2005