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Taking on a Smallholding
The Land
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Taking On A Smallholding |
Land status
If an organic enterprise is envisaged, it is important to establish what the land has been used for in the past. Have any chemicals been applied? If land has not previously been used for organic production, a conversion period of two years is required to give time for a viable and integrated system to be built up. The period may be reduced to one year if evidence can be produced to indicate that no organically prohibited substances have been used for the previous twelve months. Prohibited substances include chemical herbicides, synthetic fertilisers and synthetic pesticides.
Before land can be put into organic conversion, the owner needs to be registered with one of the organic certification bodies, such as the Soil Association (Tel: 0117 914 2412) or Organic Farmers and Growers (Tel: 0845 330 5122). They will require conversion and management plans, which is where the plans referred to earlier will come in useful.
Information and possibly financial aid with land conversion is available from the Organic Entry Level Stewardship (OELS) scheme run by DEFRA. (Helpline Tel: 0845 933 5577). There is no minimum holding size.
Boundaries
These may be hedges, ditches, walls, banks or fences. Whatever they are, their position needs to be established and their condition maintained. Overgrown hedges can be cut back to a reasonable height and depth, keeping the base slightly wider than the top. This will enable the shape of the original hedge to be seen and also it encourages new growth, which will help to fill gaps. Large gaps may need the planting of new saplings such as hawthorn, Crataegus monogyna, or hazel, Corylis avellana. These may need protection in their early years.
Ditches need to be kept clear, without cutting into the sides, for this may contravene the site line. Ditches are usually vital in draining the surrounding land as well as indicating boundary lines. If any major ditching or hedge cutting of a shared boundary is to be undertaken, it is prudent to do so with the agreement and cooperation of neighbours.
Post and rail fencing can, if necessary, be covered with galvanised netting to fill the gaps between the horizontals. Depending on the livestock, this could be pig, sheep or poultry netting. It should be well dug in to prevent burrowing under and be well braced at the corners. A tight wire running through the top will help to prevent sagging but beware of over-straining in case it breaks and whiplashes! Unless electric fencing is added, the fence will need to be at least 2m (6.6ft) high in order to stop foxes and ideally have an extra 30cm (1ft) overhang to prevent scrambling over.
Electric fencing can be added to a boundary fence if required. This involves having two horizontal wires placed about 15cm (6in) in front of the fence, one at the top and one at the bottom. If necessary more horizontals can be used. Alternatively, portable electric netting can be used. Bear in mind that there are different types and the correct one should be used for the particular livestock. Sheep netting, for example, will keep sheep in but not the fox out, so for poultry, it is essential to use poultry netting.
Pasture
Most smallholdings have some grassland but all too often it is neglected so that rank weeds such as thistles, bracken, nettles or ragwort have become established. The ideal pasture should be well drained and have a pH value of 6.5. It is worth carrying out some soil tests in different areas in order to establish the relative acidity/alkalinity. If it is very acidic, it will need an application of lime.
Any waterlogged areas should be drained, unless they are associated with a natural feature such as a hollow with pond and stream. On level land, the problem is often surface ‘panning’ where the earth has been compressed so hard that water collects on the surface. This is frequently the case around field gates where there is a lot of human or livestock traffic. Breaking up the panned area allows water to drain through more effectively.
Grassland may be permanent pasture such as that found on some traditional dairy farms where it is used for rotational grazing and hay crops. More often it is made up of temporary leys that include meadow grasses, clovers and herbs, which are periodically ploughed and reseeded. There are many types of rotations in use, depending on the site. One example might be: grass/clover ley for 3 years – potatoes – legumes – brassicas – green manure – roots – back to grass/clover ley. There are also many different seed mixtures available, including hay mixtures or those suitable for specific grazing animals. Short-growing grasses, for example, are more appropriate for free-ranging hens that cannot cope with longer growing ones.
Using pasture crop rotations in this way increases organic matter in the soil, builds up fertility, keeps weeds under control and disrupts the life cycle of parasites. If the area is only a small field that is to be kept as permanent pasture, it still needs to be properly maintained. Rank weeds need to be removed, the grass should be kept mown or topped and periodically scarified (rake scratched) as is the case with a lawn. Bare patches can be reseeded and the pasture fed with an environmentally acceptable fertiliser such as calcified seaweed. Where animals and poultry are given access, it should be on a rotational basis with a period of ‘rest’ for the land to recover.
Fruit and vegetables
The kitchen garden and orchard will also benefit from soil testing. They need to be sited in sunny areas that are not affected by frost pockets. Fruit growers often refer to the necessity of ‘atmospheric draining’. This is the practice of having protective hedging or netting such as Tensar or Rokolene so that cold air from frost pockets can disperse. These protections also allow some wind to pass through them, reducing its force but without contributing to a downward spiral that can occur with more solid structures.
Plan the growing area and work out the crop rotations in the kitchen garden. If produce is to be sold, then concentrate on fruit and vegetables for which there is a demand in the area. This will entail some research before going into production, but organic produce will bring the highest return. It may be possible, for example, to set up an ‘organic box’ scheme where regular customers take a selection of whatever is available at a particular time, and on a regular basis. Some will collect them from the farm gate, while others will wish to have them delivered.
It’s a good idea to choose modern varieties that have been bred for resistance to disease as well as good flavour. Study the catalogues! Where fruit trees are concerned, choose those on shorter rootstocks such as M26 or M27 so that they do not grow too high for picking. It’s also important to have a range of apple, pear and other fruit varieties that will pollinate each other and provide crops over an extended period. For example, the dessert apples George Cave, James Grieve, Cox Orange Pippin and Adam’s Pearmain provide crops from early, through mid-season to late in the year. The crab apple Golden Hornet is a useful tree, not necessarily for its own fruit, but for the fact that it is a good pollinator of other apple varieties. Buy fruit trees and bushes from specialist suppliers who will provide expert information based on experience.
Poultry do well in orchards, although young trees may need to have protection while they are becoming established. Trees provide shade and wind protection, and also encourage the birds to range over the whole area, rather than just outside the house. Guinea fowl are particularly good at getting rid of insect pests.
Further Information - Recommended Reading
- The Smallholder's Manual by Katie Thear.
- Starting with a Smallholding by David Hills.
- Organic Poultry by Katie Thear
Next - Taking on a Smallholding - Bees and Livestock
Copyright © Katie Thear 2006