Starting with Bees
Sample from the book Starting with Bees by Peter Gordon.
Published by Broad Leys Publishing Ltd. 2004
Details of the hive
Although hives are essentially just boxes to provide a safe
environment for the bees, they have several sections that cater for different
activities. Let us start at the bottom and work our way up.
Diagram © Copyright
Broad Leys Publishing Ltd. 2004.
Stand
Some hives, such as the WBC, come complete with legs. Most
other hives need to be provided with a stand to keep them clear
of the ground, away from rising damp and less accessible
to intruders such as mice. Breeze blocks with wooden planks on
top make perfectly good supports. It is also possible to buy purpose-made
stands from suppliers.
Floor
This is a board on which the bottom section or brood box
of the hive sits. It has an entrance through which bees
enter, and an entrance block which can be used to reduce or close off
the entrance. In winter it is advisable to add a mouse
guard to stop mice over-wintering in the hive. Some hives also have an alighting
board projecting outwards from the front of the floor.
Open mesh floors (OMFs) are also available for National hives.
These have a plastic tray that slides under the galvanised
wire mesh. The advantage of them is that they help to monitor and control
the Varroa mite which is parasitic on bees. The mites fall through the screen
but cannot climb back up again. The number on the tray is an indicator of
the level of infestation. For further details of the Varroa
mite see page 70. OMFs are also said to improve ventilation by allowing
water vapour to escape through the floor.
Brood box
Placed on the floor is a brood box, sometimes referred to
as the brood body or brood chamber. This has a series of vertically
hanging frames on which the queen bee lays her eggs. Here
may be found workers going about their various tasks of feeding
and looking after the larvae, queen and drones. Further details of the frames
are given below.
Queen excluder
Placed on top of the brood box is a queen excluder. Made
of wire, slotted steel or plastic, this stops the queen
from going up into the super above and laying her eggs there.
Drones are also too big to go through. Only the smaller workers
can pass through the apertures so that they are able to make
honey and store it in the frames of the super. An excluder is
not required in winter but should be in place by mid-April.
Super
On top of the queen excluder is a box called the super (from
the Latin meaning above). It also has vertically hanging
frames but these are shallower than those of the brood box.
It is here that the worker bees make and store most of
the honey. Several supers can be placed one on top of the other,
allowing extra space for the honey, if necessary. In a good year, three or
four supers may be needed.
Crown board
Placed on top of the supers is a crown board. This provides
insulation, to stop too much warmth escaping upwards.
An aperture on the board allows a feeder to be placed on top
when supplementary feeding is required.
The crown board can also be fitted with one or more Porter
bee escapes which allow worker bees to go out but not to
come back. This is useful when the honey crop is to be taken
and it is advisable to have as few bees on the supers as possible.
Roof
Finally, a roof is placed over the crown board. This is waterproof
so that the hive is protected against the vagaries of
the weather. There are ventilation holes at the sides,
with metal gauze to prevent insects such as wasps and robber bees getting
in.
Frames
There are two kinds of frame: those that are designed to
fit into a brood box where eggs are laid by the queen, and those
that go into a super where the honey is stored. Brood frames
are deeper than honey frames to allow for the maximum amount
of breeding.
Each frame hangs vertically by its lugs (supporting end bars)
within its box and has a bee space of 8mm at each end. This
is the critical space referred to earlier which ensures that
a frame can be lifted out of the box. A smaller space would be filled with
propolis gum by the bees, while a larger one would have wax comb built
in it. The frames also need to have a bee space between each
other. Metal end spacers which fit over the lugs have traditionally been
used, but plastic spacers are now available. There are also Hoffman self-spacing
frames which, as the name indicates, do not need end spacers. They are usually
found as standard in the Modified Dadant, Langstroth and Modified Commercial
hives, or as options for the WBC, National and Smith hives.
© Copyright
2004. Peter Gordon. Broad Leys Publishing Ltd.
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