Starting with Ducks An extract from the book by Katie Thear published by Broad Leys Publishing Ltd

Shown here is a double page spread from the book
(Photos by John Tarren and Katie Thear)

Feeding Ducks

All ducks, whether dabblers, divers or perchers, have the same need for nutrients in the form of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, minerals and vitamins; it is merely the proportions and the form in which they are found or presented that vary.

A balanced diet is essential, for too much of one type of food at the expense of other nutrients can soon lead to problems. The fact that people often throw bread to ducks on public park ponds does not mean that this is their sole diet. This is not to say that bread cannot be given, but it should be an occasional rather than a regular item. Dried bread should be broken into small pieces and soaked, for choking is not un­heard of. It is also vital to ensure that any bread given is free of moulds. The ideal diet is a compound ration with all the necessary nutrients.

Compound feeds

Compound feeds normally consist of wheat and maize, with soya bean meal and soya oil added in order to provide the extra protein and energy requirements. Minerals and vitamins are also added to ensure against deficiencies. They are formulated in several forms, depending on the age of the birds and whether they are domestic or ornamental breeds. Many ornamentals, for example, need a higher protein level because they are used to feeding on insect larvae and crustaceans in the water. Some feeds may contain fishmeal, but these are usually for ornamentals rather than domestic breeds. Egg and table breeds are best fed on a free-range or organic ration that has plant-sourced proteins. This caters for consumer preference, as well as ensuring that eggs do not acquire a fishy taste.

It is important to remember that the nutritional requirements vary at different stages. Ducklings require a higher percentage of protein than adults, so a starter ration of compound crumbs is advisable. These are available without anti-coccidiostat medications which some chick crumb rations contain. A starter ration is usually given for the first few weeks of life.
There are also grower rations for young ducks, to follow on after the starter crumbs. This type of feed has a reduced level of protein, normally around 15%, but may be even lower if slow-growing, free-range table ducks are being reared.

Before the breeding season starts, it is a good idea to feed a breeder ration to domestic and ornamental breeds. This formulation ensures that the breeding birds are not lacking in any of the crucial nutrients, and the ducklings are less likely to suffer from nutritional deficiency complaints.

Ducks will also take free-range layer’s pellets of the kind formulated for chickens. They are suitable for all types of ducks, not just the egg producers, and may indeed be the only type of feed available in some smaller feed stockists.

The morning when the ducks are released from their house is a good time to give a compound feed. Placing the pellets in a shallow, heavy-based feeder prevents them from being wasted by being trampled upon and dispersed into a mush.

Where ornamentals are concerned, compound feeds formulated specifically for them are available from some feed suppliers. (They will also take poultry layer’s pellets as described above). Some ornamental feed pellets are made to float on the surface of the water. These are particularly appropriate for sea ducks, such as Eiders, Goldeneyes, Mergansers and Smews, that need a higher protein feed to make up for the lack of fish which they would normally catch.

Natural and organic compound feeds are available, as distinct from the normal rations that are produced for the intensive sector. They are free of artificial additives, antibiotics or egg yolk colouring agents, a particularly important aspect for those keeping egg layers or rearing table ducks. It is also important not to give grower feeds such as those formulated for turkeys, or those produced for the intensive sector gener­ally, because some of the additives in them are toxic to ducks. These feeds are also much higher in protein than is necessary, even for insectivorous ducks. Turkey feeds, for example, may be as high as 24% protein. Too high a level can result in an acceler­ated rate of growth, so that weak leg or slipped wing problems may develop. There is a list of specialist feed suppliers in the reference section. Examples of compound feeds that are available are shown in the table above.

Grain

Grain such as wheat or a mixed grain ration is popu­lar with ducks, both domestic and ornamental breeds. It is useful to feed it in the afternoon, particularly when placed on a clean area of ground. Unlike pellets, the grains will not disintegrate into a mush and are soon scooped up.

Ornamentals in larger collections are often given their grain ration in shallow water. This helps to deter wild birds, such as pigeons and starlings, from helping themselves. A long, shallow and perforated trough or dish will keep the grain in one place, in shallow water near the bank, while preventing it from becoming submerged in mud. Alterna­tively, the grain can be fed in a shallow, non-perforated trough on land, with a little fresh water on top. Where domestic ducklings are being introduced to whole grains for the first time, it is a good idea to soften them in water first, until they get used to it.

As they get older, they soon get used to eating it dry, but it is important that their drinker is always close by. Small breeds may prefer to have kibbled (chopped) grains.

Wheat is, in many ways, the best all-round grain for ducks. Good quality wheat is approximately 11% protein. Oats are high in oils as well as protein and are therefore a useful winter feed. They are not always popular on their own however, and may need to be mixed in with wheat. In summer, the heat-producing qualities may be too great and it is wise to reduce the amount, or not to feed them at all, unless they are in a mixed grain ration from suppliers. Maize is also high in oils and is usually a con­stituent of mixed grain. Barley is a useful source of nutrients, but again, on its own will tend to be left. The source of barley is also important because some of the chemi­cal sprays used on the plants in some arable areas may be toxic to poultry. A letter from a friend in the USA detailed how she had lost some chickens in this way. Our practice, when it came to feeding grain, was to feed wheat in the summer months and mixed grain from a feed supplier in winter. The extra calories helped to compensate for the additional demands made on the system during the cold months.

Poultry grit and crushed oyster shell

It is important to make fine poultry grit available, particularly where whole grains are given. It keeps the gizzard functioning normally, allowing the grit to act as small millstones to grind up the grains. Free-ranging ducks will often find their own source. Crushed oyster shell is also recommended in the diet, especially for egg producers and for those which are kept as breeding birds. It helps to ensure that sufficient levels of calcium are available for strong egg shells. Most feed stockists will sell both poultry grit and crushed oyster shell. They can be placed in a shallow container and left under cover so that the ducks can help themselves as required.

Grazing and greens

Most ducks will forage on grass and marginal areas, but some, such as the Wigeon and Muscovy have a definite need to graze. Areas of pasture will therefore need to made available if these breeds are kept. Short-growing grasses are preferable to long ones, and it may be necessary to mow the pasture to keep it short, as well as to produce new, fresh growth. If a grassed area is to be sown, a suitable mixture would contain Perennial Ryegrass, Cocksfoot, Timothy, Fescues and White Clover.

Other greens that ducks are particularly fond of are Chickweed, Stellaria media and vegetable garden greens such as lettuce and cabbage. They will often eat plants in situ where they are growing in patches, but if picked for them they should be shredded into small pieces to prevent digestive blockages. Alternatively, bunches can be suspended in an enclosure. It is easy to cause an imbalance in the diet by too much feeding of one thing at the expense of another. Our practice was to let the ducks browse for greens themselves, so that they were only taking ‘standing’ plants. This was foraging in the field, with access to the vegetable garden in winter, when they did a useful job of weed clearance and pest control for us. Their basic diet, however, was compound pellets and grain.

Pond feeding

Pond plants such as the floating duckweed, Lemna minor, are a valuable source of food for dabbling ducks. Other plants provide oxygen in the water as well as a habitat for insect larvae. These, in turn may be eaten, as well as fish and even the occasional frog. Reference has already been made to floating compound pellets that are available for ornamentals, such as the Mergansers, as well as to the practice of placing grain in perforated troughs in the water for ornamentals in general.

Feeding practice

Our practice, which always worked well, was to give a compound ration of pellets in the morning, when the ducks were first let out of their house. The pellets were placed in a long, wide and heavy based feeder that they could not tip over.

Ducks’ bills are adapted for scooping so that the bill goes into and under the food. It is important to avoid powdery foods otherwise the nostrils can become clogged. If a compound mash (powder) ration is given rather than a pelleted feed, it should be moistened with water in order to produce a crumb consistency. This can also clog the nostrils however, and I prefer to give pellets so that this problem does not occur. The feeder also stays cleaner, an important aspect in preventing disease. All feeders should, of course, be cleaned on a regular basis.

Whatever form the food is in, there should be fresh water nearby. Domestic ducks will often eat some food, then waddle over to the drinker before returning for some more food. Having the feeder and drinker close to each other therefore makes sense. In a run, it is a good idea to have these placed on a slatted area so that water falls through, otherwise there will soon be a marsh.

As soon as our ducks had eaten, they would rush off to the pond, spending the rest of the day dabbling about there, and browsing on the grass and in the hedges. In the afternoon, they were given their grain ration on the grass. More pond dabbling and browsing would ensue until dusk when they went into their house for the night. If ducks are reluctant to go in, a little bit of grain in the house soon makes them change their minds. Once they are going in, however, it is as well to dis­continue the practice, in ease rats are attracted to the house and gnaw their way in.
There are obviously many different feeding regimes, depending on the type of ducks and nature of the enterprise but as a general rule, the guidelines are:

Home feeds

Home-produced feed can be given, as long as it does not provide too much of one thing at the expense of other nutrients, as referred to earlier. Suitable ingredients include green or vegetable garden foods such as nettles, lettuce, carrots, brassicas and alfalfa (lucerne), etc. They should be well chopped or shredded so that there are no items large enough to cause impaction. They must be used fresh, with any leftovers disposed of before they become mouldy. (The latter is a sure way of introducing disease).

Boiled potatoes (not green) mixed to a crumb consistency with wheat meal or oatmeal is a good ration for table ducks, especially with chopped greens added. Whole mixed grain is also appreciated with this ration.

Fresh, salt-free kitchen scraps are fine for the household flock, but should not be given where table ducks or eggs are sold.

© 2004. Katie Thear.

From Starting with Ducks , published by Broad Leys Publishing Ltd